The Amdavadi or Ashavali saree weaving technique dates back to hundreds of years. The artisans of Ashapal in pre-Ahmed Shah era used to weave this gorgeous silk textile in zari and beautiful motifs. This detailed weaving technique dates back to atleast 600 years & gets its name from Ashapal, the old name of Ahmedabad.
Amdavadi sarees & textiles are woven using the traditional Jacquard loom. The process of the Amdavadi saree weaving starts with soaking and dyeing the yarns of silk. These soft yarns are wound onto the spools by a group of women artisans as they discuss their daily lives with each other. The layout of the saree and motifs are designed on graph paper by an expert artist and thereafter each design is prepared on hundreds of perforated cards that are punched and attached to the loom. The master weaver then sits on the handloom and puts his expertise into creating this intricate textile. The threads are woven on pit looms, on which warp- the vertical threads and the weft- the horizontal threads are carefully interwoven by moving the shuttle back and forth. This is a meticulous process because the motifs are also woven during the process, so the artisans have to be skilled and patient. The borders are usually adorned with minakari (enameling) in flora and fauna designs that are woven on silks of different types along with real zari or silk threads. After almost a month of effort, a beautiful saree takes shape.
Amdavadi Zari weaving technique thankfully remains the same as it was in its ancient days. the weaving technique and motifs are being used to design ensembles with modern aesthetics to appeal to the global audience who appreciate the intricacy and hard work done by the weavers. There are lighter fabric and saree options and various color combinations to suit the evolved customer of today.
Brand Shyamal & Bhumika constantly seeks ways to integrate India’s artisanal techniques and design couture collections that would resonate with modern as well as traditional clientele. Our identity revolves around making Indian ancient crafts meet modern aesthetics for the global muse.